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Wednesday, June 18, 2014

My trip to Europe: Le Rempart, Tournus, France

image of city hall of Tournus, France

Our last Michelin Star restaurant we tried in our trip in Bourgogne was Le Rempart in Tournus. Nice small city of approximately 6,200 inhabitants, located along the Saône river; it was very quiet at the time we were there, if not for the activity surrounding a small cruise boat where one could dine while sailing on the river.
image of  street of Tournus, France

image of Saone river in the border of Tournus, France

The restaurant Le Rempart is located in a hotel with the same name. There is in fact the restaurant, as well as a low key bistro, located at the opposite side. 
image of Le Rempart in Tournus, France

The impressive building was a 15th century guardhouse, built on the ramparts that were surrounding the city, hence the name Le Rempart (The Rempart), and their logo that is everywhere. 
image of Le Rempart in Tournus, France

The decor is pretty elegant and it is definitely one level up from Pierre the restaurant that we visited the day before. At the entrance is a very small lounge where you can enjoy a drink from their large selection of alcohol. 
image of bar of Le Rempart in Tournus, France

image of bar of Le Rempart in Tournus, France

image of lounge of Le Rempart in Tournus, France

Then, the tables, not too close to each other. 
image of dining room at Le Rempart in Tournus, France

The menu, crafted by Chef Sylvain Gohier is very elegant, with an outstanding presentation that would make you think that the Chef is a painter and the plate his canvas. Again here, the food is not only for the pleasure of the palate, but also for the pleasure of the eyes. Showcasing incredible creativity, the Chef interprets dishes from different regions of France, sourcing the high quality ingredients he is using from French producers. 

We decided to start our meal with the house cocktail, made with whiskey, sweet wine (it might have been martini) and Pacherinc. 
image of house cocktail at Le Rempart in Tournus, France

With it, they served us some amuse-bouche. 
image of amuse-bouche at Le Rempart in Tournus, France

It was composed of:

Goat cheese

image of goat cheese at Le Rempart in Tournus, France

Tomato with chorizo
image of tomato with chorizo at Le Rempart in Tournus, France

Tuna
image of tuna at Le Rempart in Tournus, France

They then served us bread and butter. 
image of bread and butter at Le Rempart in Tournus, France

Jodi picked the cereal bread
image of cereal bread at Le Rempart in Tournus, France

And I picked the olive and tomato one. 
image of olives and tomato bread at Le Rempart in Tournus, France

Then, we all got a petit consommé de petits pois avec son anchoïade or peas consommé with anchovy cream. 
image of petit consommé de petit-pois avec son anchoiade at Le Rempart in Tournus, France

image of petit consommé de petit-pois avec son anchoïade at Le Rempart in Tournus, France

It started well! I love these little amuse that you get in restaurant of this caliber, because it opens your appetite. 

For the appetizer, I got the boeuf Charolais servi en tartare, copeaux de Cécina, Jaune d'oeuf confit et pissaladière aux anchois de Sicile. That is: beef tartare with yolk confit and pissaladière made with anchovies from Sicily. 
image of boeuf Charolais servi en tartare at Le Rempart in Tournus, France

I tried beef tartare in the past, but did not like it. I was thinking that in this restaurant it would be fantastic; and I was right! It was succulent, the meat (boeuf Charolais is top quality beef) being very good, cut in very small cubes, giving a bit of texture compared to the ground meat I got in the past, that gave a mushy feel. I definitely discovered, if not re-discovered beef tartare there. 
image of boeuf Charolais servi en tartare at Le Rempart in Tournus, France

image of boeuf Charolais servi en tartare at Le Rempart in Tournus, France

Jodi got the saumon bio marqué au Fer rouge, tartare au citron Cedras et oeuf de poisson volant, sablé Parmesan et vinaigrette de betterave, or: organic salmon marked with an iron, tartare of lemon from Cedras, flying fish eggs, Parmesan crisp and beets vinaigrette. 
image of salmon at Le Rempart in Tournus, France

The salmon was delicious: simply cooked, it was a great piece of fish, very fresh. I liked the flying fish eggs with it as they added a delightful bitterness and saltiness to it. 
image of salmon at Le Rempart in Tournus, France

For my first entree, I had fish. Yes, I wrote first entree, because they propose a menu with fish and then meat. It was a bar de chalut cuit lentement, avec gnocchi de broccoli et écume de langue d'oursin or slow cooked bar fish, served with broccoli gnocchi and a sauce made with sea urchin. 
image of bar de chalut cuit lentement, avec gnocchi de broccoli at Le Rempart in Tournus, France

It was a succulent dish, the fish being cooked perfectly and very moist. I truly appreciated the fact that the light gnocchi had a very slight broccoli taste. 

In fact, Jodi got the same dish, but, as it was from the menu and not prix-fixe, she got a bigger portion and a totally different presentation.
image of bar de chalut cuit lentement, avec gnocchi de broccoli at Le Rempart in Tournus, France

The meat dish was agneau de lait d'Aveyron, carré servi rosé, avec asperges vertes or lamb rack cooked pink with asparagus. 
image of agneau de lait d'Aveyron at Le Rempart in Tournus, France

This was definitely my favorite dish: the meat was so good, tender and tasty with a nice charred fat, that I wish they had more. If you like lamb, I really recommend it. However, I did not like what was under that was surely not polenta, and had a weird taste. 

After the entree, they served us the cheese course. 
image of cheese cart at Le Rempart in Tournus, France

Yes, they brought the cheese cart and as Jodi put it, you could hear angels singing when they opened it! I could pick three different ones from a large selection of French cheeses. I chose:
image of cheese plate at Le Rempart in Tournus, France

Brillat Savarin, a triple-cream cheese made from cow's milk:
image of Brillat Savarin cheese at Le Rempart in Tournus, France

Epoisse (soft cow's milk cheese from Bourgogne):
image of Epoisse cheese at Le Rempart in Tournus, France

Tomme de Corse (from sheep's milk):
image of Tomme de Corse cheese at Le Rempart in Tournus, France

It was served with une pâte de coing or quince jelly. 

Then we got a pre-dessert that was a crémeux de fleur d'oranger, purée de fruits rouges et chantilly. Meaning: orange blossom cream with red fruits purée and whipped cream. 
image of Orange blossom cream at Le Rempart in Tournus, France

image of Orange blossom cream at Le Rempart in Tournus, France

And dessert: that time, I went for the Grand-Marnier soufflé that did not only looked spectacular, but was succulent (and big). 
image of Grand Marnier souffle at Le Rempart in Tournus, France

It was served with a lemon sherbet and a muffin that I really did not care about. 

Jodi got a selection of sherbet and ice cream. 
image of sherbet and ice cream at Le Rempart in Tournus, France

At that point, I was so full that I did not even think about writing down the flavors. We were also trying to figure out if the decorations on the plates were handmade. The answer from the waiter was funny: "We hired an artist and taught him how to make desserts". 

And they stuffed us with some cookies as if we still had room after such a feast...
image of cookies at Le Rempart in Tournus, France

image of cookies at Le Rempart in Tournus, France

I could not eat anymore and regretted not wearing stretch pants...

To accompany our meal, we got a white wine: Chassagne-Montrachet premier cru 2008. 
image of Chassagne-Montrachet premier cru 2008 at Le Rempart in Tournus, France

And a red: Chambolle-Musigny 2011. 
image of Chambolle-Musigny 2011 at Le Rempart in Tournus, France

Both were proposed by the sommelier who did a great job advising about the wine. When asked if he prefers red or white with cheese, he interestingly said that he prefers white, because cheese would reveal too much the tannins of the wine, making it bitter, and vice-versa. 

This was a fantastic evening and dinner, in a nice place, with an outstanding service. Considering this and the cuisine perfectly executed by the Chef and his crew, I would not be surprised that a second Michelin Star follows...

Le Rempart
2 Avenue Gambetta
71700 Tournus, France

Enjoy (I sure did)!

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And Remember: I Just Want To Eat!

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