My trip to Europe: Trattoria ZàZà in Florence, Italy

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We decided to go back to the Piazza del Mercato Centrale after our meal at Trattoria Mario, as we saw that there were plenty of restaurants, thinking that they probably source their ingredients from there. At that time, the market was closing down and the market crowd was gone, replaced by tourists looking for some amazing food.

We looked around and noticed a very crowded place called Trattoria ZàZà. That place, opened in 1977 by Stefano Bondi, is huge. They sat us in a small, quiet area, away from the noise.

We were ready for a feast and were not disappointed. Problem was: what do we order? The menu had so many mouth watering dishes that we were not sure...

So we started with the San Lorenzo "Tagliere", a plate of prosciutto, salami, stracchino (so good and creamy) and pecorino cheese, olives. This was a big plate for sure, but so good, especially the cheese.

We also tried a sampler of three traditional soups:

It was composed of:

• Ribolita (top left): a vegetable and bread soup.
• Pappa al pomodoro (bottom left): tomato, basil, leeks and bread soup.
• Bean soup with barley.

This was delicious and I am glad that they offered a sampler. My favorite was definitely the bean soup that we found in other restaurants, cooked in different ways.

Then, Jodi got the Insalata Campagnola, a salad made with pecorino cheese, prosciutto and pears:

On my side, I ordered the linguine alle Vongole, desperate to find one that topped the grainy one from Borgo Antico.

It was just ok, not having enough white wine sauce. At least, the clams were well cleaned.

We did not have dessert as we had other plans and, anyway, needed a little walk after that feast...I certainly recommend Trattoria ZàZà for a good dinner. Their bistecca alla fiorentina looked fantastic and I would have gone back, I would have probably tried it!

Enjoy (I did)!

Trattoria ZàZà
Piazza del Mercato Centrale, 26, 50123 Florence, Italy
http://www.trattoriazaza.it

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My trip to Europe: Il Salimbecco in Florence, Italy

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As Pisa is close to Florence (approx. 1h20 minute bus drive), we decided to book a tour and go there an afternoon. For sure, we could not miss seeing the leaning tower.

This construction that was built over 199 years starting in 1173 is impressive with its tilt that makes you wonder how in the world it is still standing.

So, before the tour that left at 1:30pm, we had to find a restaurant. We ended up at Il Salimbecco, located across the Capelle Medicee.

We sat outside, at the terrace, as the weather was pretty nice.

We started off our lunch with bruschetta e fettunta con extra vergine Toscano or bruschetta with tomato, garlic and olive oil:

This is a very simple dish that was refreshing.

Then, Jodi got the pizza Tartufata that is with mozzarella, truffle, porcini mushrooms and fresh tomatoes:

This was a disappointing pizza, being very soggy and the mushrooms having a weird texture.

On my side, I had fettucine Alfredo that I only saw in this restaurant while in Florence.

This dish was just ok, the sauce being a bit grainy.

So, you can guess that we were not that thrilled about that lunch. I would definitely pass the next time...

Il Salimbecco

Via del Canto de'Nelli 38/r

Florence, Italy

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My trip to Europe: Mamma Gina in Florence, Italy

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Finding a restaurant in Florence is not a problem. The question is where to find a good one. There are of course guide books or sites like Trip Advisor, but the best is to get it either from locals, or from people who lived there. That is what happened with Mamma Gina: it was recommended by Jodi's friend Sabrina, who used to live there. 

Mamma Gina is located few steps from the Ponto Vecchio, the famous arch bridge re-built in 1345 across the Arno river, that was in fact the only bridge not destroyed in WWII.

It has interesting architecture, with its shops built along the arch; shops that use to be occupied by butchers, and now by expensive jewelers.

So, here we are at Mamma Gina. I originally thought that this place was small, but it is fairly big. I counted three different rooms: a small one at the entrance.

One in the back 

That has a view of the kitchen. 

And one on the side where we dined. 

We decided to start with the Parmesan salad (nice amount of Parmesan on it):

As well as the chicken liver crostini. 

Ok, I admit that the brown color of the chicken liver pâté was not very appetizing, but it was a good dish, different in texture from the chicken liver pâté you would find in France or the chicken liver in the US. 

Then, Jodi got the eggplant Parmesan:

It was a good portion and did not need any pasta as a side with it. I am not sure how they prepared it, but it surely let the eggplant be the star of the dish. 

On my side, I ordered the tagliatelle al ragù. 

The pasta were freshly made there and perfectly cooked. I truly appreciated the generous portion of this delicious ragù that was very comforting. 

We finished off with the panna cotta that was succulent.

The service there was good, that was, from what we experienced so far, surprising...Anyway, Mamma Gina was definitely a good recommendation and I am glad we had the opportunity to try it. 

Enjoy (I did)!

Mamma Gina
Borgo San Iacopo
37 r, 50125 Florence, Italy
www.mammagina.it

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My trip to Europe: Trattoria Mario, communal dining in Florence, Italy

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We went to trattoria Mario thanks to a recommendation from Jodi's friend, Missy. This place, that is only open for lunch and does not take any reservations, is located near the Mercato Centrale or Central Market, where one can either buy food (inside) or bags and souvenirs, outside. 

We arrived twenty minutes before and there were already people waiting outside.

Few minutes later, they opened the door and told us to get seated at specific spots, mentioning that the kitchen would only open at 12pm.

At 12:05pm, the place was full and we heard them telling people that the wait would be thirty minutes.

One particularity of this place is that it is communal seating: that was our first experience in this type of setup and we ended up eating with two regulars who knew the staff so well that one of them helped himself by grabbing some bread next to the small kitchen. They told us that they come on a quasi daily basis, because the food is as good as the one cooked by Grandma.

But let me restate how communal it is: imagine a table of two we are used to and put four people on it.

We looked at the menu that was fortunately translated in English and had to make our choice quickly. Jodi ordered the ravioli verdi alle zuccine or ravioli with zucchini. 

This was a very nice dish, sort of peasant food. The ravioli by themselves were not that great, because the filling made with ricotta was a bit dry, but with the vegetables, it was succulent. 

On my side, I ordered the manicotti al ragù. 

It was good and hearty, but I would have liked more ragù. Portion wise, it was small and I guess it was on purpose do people would order an appetizer. Concerning the pasta, I am not sure they were freshly made and tend to think they were store bought. 

With my meal, I got a carafe of Chianti. 

Eating at Trattoria Mario was a very nice experience. The food was delicious and came very quickly to our table and we enjoyed talking to the people sitting with us, although the table was a little small for four people. I definitely recommend this place, but know that, if you go, they only accept cash. 

Enjoy (I did)!

Trattoria Mario

Via Rosina, 2
50123 Florence, Italy

trattoria-mario.com

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My trip to Europe: Italian desserts at Caffè Gilli in Florence, Italy

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After our average dinner at Borgo Antico, we decided to treat ourselves for some good Italian pastries and tried Caffè Gilli, a cafe opened in 1733 by the Gilli family, that moved since then in different part of the city.

Caffè Gilli is a beautiful place that combines a patisserie and a tea room that had a very elegant decor.

Jodi decided to order a tea

While on my side I ordered a latte macchiato

For pastries, we went for:

the tiramisu (of course, we could not not have it Italy):

It was delicious, very creamy with a nice amount of coffee.

The baba:

Very good, the cake was perfect and there was a nice amount of rum in it.

The cannoli:

Although I liked the ricotta filling, it was a miss, the shell being soggy.

This was a good way to end the evening. If I were to go back to Florence, I would definitely go back Caffè Gilli and definitely recommend the latte macchiato that was divine, as well as the tiramisu or baba (anyway, they have plenty more pastries to try!).

Caffé Gilli

Via Roma 1r, 

Florence, Italy

http://www.gilli.it

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